A Feast for the Eyes - The Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show, Part One

The last several days have been deeply unsettling, to say the least, and as many people have pointed out, Paris, and the rest of us, must try to move forward and carry on, despite the grief and anger in our hearts.  We need to remember there will always be light, and love, and moments of joy, despite efforts of some people to extinguish them.  And there will always be beauty in the world, and I will continue to celebrate things I find beautiful as long as they exist.  And with that in mind, I'm continuing with my New York stories, because they make me happy, and hopefully you find them entertaining.

I time my visits to New York to coincide with the fall Manhattan Vintage Show. This was my fifth year attending the show, and each year I find new things and people to admire.

Each show (it is held three times a year) features a display dedicated to a particular designer or theme in the lobby of the venue.  This time the display featured the designs of Gianni Versace, and vendors contributed colourful vintage Versace items from their stock.  I've never been a big fan of Versace's designs, but I can appreciate the bold colour mixing.

The photos above shows the range of styles you can find at the show.  The rare sequinned Geoffrey Beene Football jersey dress from 1967 was on display at the Augusta Auctions booth, and the animal print suit was at Amarcord Vintage.  

One of the good things about the fall show is that you get to see a lot of amazing coats (and if you've followed me for a while, you know I have a thing for coats).  The gorgeous Bill Blass fur-trimmed coat on the left is from Olive's Very Vintage.   Jen, the lovely owner of Olive's (who is kindly holding the coat up for a photo), is one of the nicest vendors at the show and I enjoy stopping by her booth for a chat.  The houndstooth print on the right is from Metropolis Vintage.

I was crushing on this duck-embroidered coat at Vintage Martini, even though no one else seemed to share my enthusiasm (come on, yellow and white ducks, on a coat!).  We did reach consensus that the mohair coat on the right, modeled by Mary Ann, owner of Maison Jadis was a fabulous statement piece.

You are guaranteed to see items at the show that will cause you to wonder who wore them, and wherever did they get them.  In the "this is so weird it's kind of cool" category was this dyed persian lamb cape, complete with leather fringe at Lofty Vintage.

Green seemed to be a big colour this year, with a number of vendors featuring items in various shades on display.  The young woman on the left was working at the Maison Jadis booth and was rocking the vibrant maxi she wore on Friday.  The velvet and quilted jacket on the top right is from Vintage Martini (I loved the necklace) and the acid green fur was part of a display at Lofty Vintage.

This little jacket caught my eye at Leon's Vintage.  The pattern, three-quarter sleeves, and the leather peplum made it something I could have happily incorporated into my wardrobe.  However, as my closet seems to be bursting with jackets at the moment, I didn't even ask to try it on.  I was surprised, and rather proud, of my restraint.

One of the things I love about shows like these is that you get an opportunity to see the creme de la creme of vintage, including some spectacular novelty pieces like this sweater at Olive's Very Vintage.   This is the back view of the sweater - the grey-jacketed arms wrap around from the front.  This would be the ideal thing to wear on those days when you really need a hug.

Many of the pieces in the show feature ornate hand-done embellishment, such as on this embroidered blouse from the early 1900's, shown off by Heather Ramey, owner of Noble Savage Vintage, which carries a good selection of clothing and accessories from the first half of the 20th century.

I didn't plan for these photos to fit together like this, it was a lucky accident.  The embroidered navy robe on the left is from SwaneeGRACE and I believe was from the 30's or 40's.  The Norma Kamali coat on the right also features nature-themed all-over embroidery.  The coat, from Lofty Vintage, would keep the wearer extremely warm, and also make them look like a very fancy Michelin Man.

This Prada suede jacket with appliqued leaves was at Daybreak Vintage

The prints on these three skirts were some of my favourites from the weekend.  The "birds and trees" print maxi was at Maison Jadis, the "Cat and fish skeleton" was from The House of Findings, and the candy-coloured jungle-print cotton mini was from E-Collectique.

Lisa D'Angelo always has spectacularly embellished pieces from the 20's and 30's on display in front of her booth, Lisa Victoria Vintage.  This year,  I sighed over the beautiful Art Deco velvet cape/coat on the left and the made-in-Belgium beaded dress from the 20's on the right.  I would love to be able to wear something so dazzling just for one night (and not worry about damaging it).

There were some vendors at this year's show that I did not remember seeing before, including Vintage! which featured some amazing eye-candy from the late 20th century.  The Vivienne Westwood "Prince Charming" outfit on the left was featured in one of her runway shows, and had the accompanying photo to prove it.  There were some fun pieces of 80's jewellery, glittery 70's platform boots and some drool-worthy pieces of rock and roll history.

Gypsy Nation Vintage always has one of the most interesting displays in the show, incorporating colourful ethnic clothing and accessories.

Fool's Gold had a stellar selection of bakelite jewellery.  My friend Jean, half of the Idiosyncratic Fashionistas, has an enviable collection of bakelite and is never without an armload of bracelets.  If I could choose one piece from the tray above, it would be the pin with the red hand wearing the polka dot bracelet.

If metal was more your style, Lofty Vintage had some stunning pieces, including the giant tribal-style necklace in the middle of the above display.

Lulu's Vintage Lovelies had some funky neckpieces like the silver collar above.

If you subscribe to the "Go Big or Go Home" philosphy of accessorizing, then the Vintage Show is

the place for you.  Four of my favourite pieces, clockwise from top left:  giant amber chunk necklace from Metropolis Vintage; spectacular silver and crystal choker from Lulu's Vintage Lovelies; an unusual, and rather dangerous-looking bracelet from Vintage Le Monde, and a fabulous pair of "lipstick tube" earrings from Tu Vintage.

These cute and colourful school satchels were available at Yulia's Bags

One of most entertaining pieces I found this year was this metal "breast plate" at Vintage Le Monde.  I can easily see Vix wearing this with great aplomb!

And of course, it wouldn't be a vintage show without hats.  I didn't see as many extravagant ones as I have in previous years, but there were definitely some statement-making pieces of headwear available.  Clockwise from top left:  a gorgeous three piece set in pink reptile-print leather from the 1940's at Vintage Martini; a dramatic Jack McConnell design at Lulu's Vintage Lovelies; wool felt spiral hat from Vintage with a Twist, and a silk pleated topper at the Town Peddler.

And the Piece de Resistance

The woman on the left is Carmen Bury, and she made the spectacular coat I'm wearing.  I spotted the coat on display and was admiring it, when Carmen introduced herself and explained she had made it, and her friend let her put it on display in his booth, Atellier Montclair, along with some accessories she had made.   I couldn't resist asking if I could try it on, and while she said it had never been worn,  I was welcome to try it.  It weighs about 40 lbs and it took her approximately 6 months to make.

Even the inside of the coat was beautiful

We proceeded to take a stroll around the venue so that the coat would get some exposure, and I will readily admit that I felt like a star swanning about in that coat of many colours.  Lots of people took photos and it definitely got a lot of attention.  Carmen was touched by the compliments people gave her on the coat and thanked me for being her model with a gift of a piece of jewellery she had made.  I assured her that the pleasure was all mine.   Only in New York!

Part two will feature photos of the delightfully stylish people I met at the show

The Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show - Part 1

My annual visit to New York would not be complete without spending a day (or two) at the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show and Sale, and I plan my visit to coincide with the event.  There is too much to show in one post, so as per usual, I have split it up into two parts; The Stuff and The People....

 

The Stuff

The show is held in the Metropolitan Pavilion in Chelsea, and each year a display in the lobby showcases a particular designer or theme.  This year's exhibit featured coats designed by Bonnie Cashin, who was known for her pioneering designs in sportswear and use of luxurious natural materials such as leather and mohair.  She worked at the clothing and suit manufacturer, Adler & Adler, in New York from 1937 to 1942 and then returned to her home of California to design costumes for 20th Century Fox.  In 1950, she returned to New York and in 1951 formed Bonnie Cashin Designs Inc.  She designed every item herself, and in 1960, expanded her business to England.  She was the founding designer for Coach and also designed cashmere knits for the Scottish Brand Ballantyne ( I have one of her sweaters for that company).  Cashin believed that clothing should be as functional as it was beautiful.  She was the first designer to use industrial hardware in her clothing and accessories, and attached "Purse Pockets" in coats that didn't already have large pockets in the design. 

Cashin's coats incorporated signature shapes like the cape, tunic and kimono

I love the grey poncho/cape on the right with the Cashin trademark leather piping.  I think it would make a fabulous skirt if you had a waist that would fit the neckline.

After seeing the Cashin coats in the lobby, I thought I'd see what other amazing pieces of outerwear I could find at the show.  There were too many to be able to photograph them all, so here are a few of my favourites....

Nomad Vintage had acquired a number of hand-painted coats and jackets from a Brooklyn artist and I was especially taken with the funky one above left.  It was a heavy cotton canvas and I loved the shape, and the fabric-covered triangle-shaped buttons.  The swoon-worthy tiered and pleated velvet cape on the right was designed by British artist and fashion designer Thea Porter at the Patina Vintage booth.

There is a lot of fringe showing up this year and this vintage coat from Olive's Very Vintage in bold plaid with fringe trim would look great with jeans and leather boots.

The bold statement coat on the left was at the Marilyn Hitchcock Vintage booth, and it was snatched up by Valerie and Jean's friend Marja Samsom.  That's Jean, half of the Idiosyncratic Fashionistas with Marja modelling her new coat.

I adore both of these fur-trimmed coats, but if I had to pick one, I would go with the black and white one, from Incogneeto.   The beautiful one on the right with a 20's shape was at Sun and Moon Boutique

This gorgeous fur-trimmed (Persian lamb?) coat and matching hat, a Givenchy Haute Couture from 1978, was available at Vintage Martini

Two statement coats at Elaine Klausman's Vintage With a Twist booth:  (l) Oscar de la Renta painted sheepskin coat  (r) silk evening coat

A number of pieces from the recently deceased de la Renta were available at the show.  The rust leather coat on the left, and the black and gold one were both his designs, and were available at Pocketbook Vintage.

There is no shortage of one-of-a-kind accessories at the show, and I was happy to realize that after four years of attending the show,  I'm finally able to admire a spectacular piece of eye candy as wearable art and photograph it to share with my readers, but not feel bad about having to leave it behind.  

Clockwise from top left:  metal necklace from VintageLeMonde; fluffy Moschino heels from Vintage Martini;  1960's hat designed by Hattie Carnegie at Incogneeto; cheerful orange (60's?) hat from Daybreak Vintage

Andrea Hall Levy, owner of Lofty Vintage, always has the best displays at her booth.  She has been selling at the show for 10 years, and has a great eye for fabulous pieces that reflect her belief in the importance of self-expression.

Clockwise from left:  Commes des Garcons dress, detail of embroidery on a vintage coat, two outfits guaranteed to make you the most interesting-looking person in the room; all from Lofty Vintage.

Nomad Vintage had this very interesting gathered and twisted dress on display. I would have loved to have seen how it looked on a real body.

Gypsy Nation Vintage (left) combined crinkled cotton and fur, while Billie Madley (r) featured spectacular accessories

No matter what the occasion, you could find the perfect dress at the Manhattan Vintage Show...

The Fancy Cocktail Party

red velvet at Bond 07 By Selima, or Claudia satin and velvet dress at Boho in Soho Vintage

Lunch and Shopping with Friends

 

 Pucci dress from Daybreak Vintage

 

The Academy Awards

Why make the long walk to the stage in yet another strapless mermaid dress when you could dazzle in the chiffon Frank Lai-designed dress on the left from Sun and Moon Vintage, or leave them gasping for breath in the backless Galliano dress on the right, from Vintage LeMonde?

 or, you could layer this very rare 1970's pearl jewellery dress designed by Bill Smith over something simple and black and look smashing.  Smith was the first African American to win a Coty Award.  The dress was on display at the Revival Vintage Boutique, which was a new vendor at the show this year.

 And a few other vintage oddities....

This awe-inspiring bird mask from Revival Vintage Boutique incorporates a real taxidermied bird and would certainly make the wearer the center of attention at any event.

This amazing peacock showgirl costume was on display at Another Man's Treasure.  When it didn't sell at the show, shop owner Meika wore the costume to a Halloween party and looked stunning in it.

And finally, the Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show and Sale is not just about looking at pretty stuff, (although there is certainly a lot of that), you can also learn a lot just by talking to the vendors, many of whom have an encyclopedic knowledge of vintage clothing and the stories behind their treasures.

Regina, owner of Vintage LeMonde, explained the story of this WWII souvenir jacket made in Japan.  American troops would have these jackets made for them when they were in Japan and the design would be hand-embroidered.  In the case of this jacket, it was made for someone who had been on the U.S.S. Kyes.  The jacket is not only a gorgeous art piece, but would be coveted by any WWII history buff.

I bet you didn't know that The Beatles once had a clothing boutique!  The Apple Boutique opened in London (England) in December 1967, and was described by Paul McCartney as "a beautiful place where beautiful people can buy beautiful things".  Unfortunately, the business closed after only 8 months, but during the time it was open, a young American woman bought seven outfits there, two of which were on display at the Augusta Auction Company's booth at the show.   The friendly man  working at the booth told me the rather poignant story of how the woman came back to the United States with her purchases, only to be made fun of when she wore the green two piece suit (right hand photo above) in the small town where she lived.  She was so embarrassed that she never wore any of the other outfits, which means they are in pristine condition.  I felt sad for that woman after hearing the story, as there was obviously something in their psychedelic style that spoke to her, and she wasn't able to enjoy them. 

If you are dying to own a piece of wearable psychedelia, the pieces will be offered for auction at the Fall Vintage Fashion and Textile Auction in New York city on November 12th.  More information can be found on the Augusta Auctions website.

Whew, that was a long post.  If you made it this far without having to take a break, congratulations!

Part Two will be up later this week, with photos of the stylish folks at the show.